• Singer Perfect Plus

    Sew a Mix-and-Match Wardrobe for Plus and Petite-Plus Sizes

     

    Kathleen Cheetham presents 4 enclosed patterns, step-by-step construction, and fitting instruction. Readers can create a wardrobe of versatile and stylish garments--which can be adapted for office wear, casual wear, or evening wear, just by varying the colors, fabrics, and finishing details. Never have to say you have nothing to wear again!


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    Any sewer will benefit from the fitting techniques featured in this informative DVD, a companion to Pants for Real People: Sewing Techniques . 


    Sewers will learn how to buy the right-size pattern, fine-tune it before cutting, and then tissue-fit it. 


  • Pants for Real People: Sewing Techniques

    This informative guide illustrates how to sew great pants that flatter any fit. 


    The tips and techniques within this useful reference include how to prepare and cut fabric, mark darts, sew zippers, pin-fit the fabric, press seams, and attach different styles of waistbands. 

    This DVD is a must-have to follow up the fitting DVD.


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Building a New Wardrobe for Petite Plus Size Women – Pattern Alterations – Flat Fly Front Pants

I thought pants would be easy to fit. NOT SO!

First I pressed and cut out all the pieces. Next I marked the seam allowance and tape-reinforced the crotch area. Then I pinned up the hem and pinned the pieces together for a pin fitting.

As explained in the Palmer/Pletch pant fitting video, it is possible to fit yourself if you have a full-length mirror and a hand held mirror. Use a piece of 1″ wide elastic around your waist to hold the pattern up.

Examine carefully. You are looking for any wrinkles in the pattern paper. Pants should not have any folds except darts and pleats (if you have them in the pattern).

First I found the whole pattern a bit small. The pattern tissue tore when I tried it on. I added extra tissue to the outside front and back seams then the front and back inseams (I should’ve done this right from the start!). And the center front and back didn’t reach the elastic at my waist.

I added 2″ length to the top portion of the front and back above the crotch. This turned out to be too much. I took 1″ off both front and back, leaving 1″ of extra length there.

The extra I added at the side seams gave me lots of room so I took some of that in. I’d added a couple of inches on each but really only needed 1/2″. Better too much than too little though.

I didn’t have a problem with smile lines on the front, but there were smile lines on the back just under my bum. To get rid of smile lines, I re-pinned the inseams with more room.

I tried it on again. Still smile lines in the back. Re-pinned again, letting out the inseams more.

I encountered the same problem again and again. I kept adding to the inseam and re-pinning several times. I was beginning to think this wasn’t actually the problem. Turned out it was. I finally got to a point where the smile lines in the back disappeared. Guess those Palmer/Pletch women do know what they’re talking about. :-)

Well, after all the pin fitting, my pattern looked pretty worn. It tore in several places so I repaired it with tape. The pin holes tore out several times so I repaired those too. When I do get the fit right, I will reinforce this entire pattern with iron-on stabilizer or use wonder-web to “glue” it onto light cardboard. This will be a pattern worth keeping!

One thing I have to comment on – be VERY careful with the pins in the crotch area while fitting. That’s a pretty sensitive area. I thought I drew blood more than once. :-)

When I was finally happy with the pattern, I cut it out of the dusty rose linen-type material. I chose this because I wanted to make a “practice” pair out of this pattern first and the pink fabric was pretty cheap. The pink pants will go well with the eyeglass fabric too.

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