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Building a New Wardrobe for Petite Plus Size Women – Pattern Alterations – Pin Fitting The Fly Front Pants

I carefully straightened one end of the fabric by pulling a cross thread and cutting along it then pinned the selvedges together accurately. I pinned the two ends of the grainline on each pattern piece the same distance (yes, I used a ruler) from the selvedge to make sure the pattern piece was exactly on grain. I then used pattern weights and a rotary cutter to accurately cut the pieces.

I cut with a 1″ seam allowance on side and inseams to allow lots of fitting room. Then I marked the seam lines, hem lines, and darts on the wrong side of the pieces with a marking wheel tool and tailor’s transfer paper (doing both pieces at once with the paper folded between worked well). The darts are not placed right for me but they can be moved on fitting. I snipped all notches, hemlines, waistline, and centers.

Next was to pin fit the fabric. I pinned the fronts and backs along the seamlines, wrong sides together and being careful to point all the pins down. Then I pinned the crotch together along the seam line, again making sure the pins pointed away from the body (for when I try on the pants).

I used a safety pin to pin a 1″ wide piece of waistband elastic around my waist. Then I pulled on the pants very carefully. I tucked the fabric under the elastic at my waist to hold it while I analyzed the fit. Ouch! No matter what I tried, the pins in the crotch kept sticking me!

I tried readjusting the pants and re-pinning the crotch in several different ways but I just couldn’t stand it anymore! I finally basted the entire crotch on the seamline and a few inches down the inseam on each leg. Whew! No more pins in my crotch!

Then I was able to comfortably try on the pants, move pins a bit, try them on again, and so on. I was even able to carefully sit, bend, and walk in them this way. I definitely don’t recommend pin fitting fabric in the crotch area. It wasn’t bad when I pin fit the pattern pieces but the fabric drape allowed the pins to point in all the wrong directions. Live and learn . . .

(sorry, no pics of this process)

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